
Nach drei Wochen Strand-Hopping auf den thailändischen Inseln wollten wir Kultur, Menschen und Natur von Thailand näher kennenlernen. Dafür eignet sich der Norden des Landes am besten, wurde uns gesagt. Unsere Reise von Phangan nach Chiang Mai mit Taxi, Fähre, Bus, Flugzeug und noch einmal Taxi dauerte 9 Stunden.
1. Mit Tuk Tuk zum Tempel
Als Erstes fuhren wir mit dem Tuk Tuk in die Altstadt. Allein die Fahrt war ein großes Abenteuer für unseren Vierjährigen. Er winkte begeistert den Vorbeifahrenden zu. Wir Eltern konnten währenddessen einen ersten Eindruck von der kulturell wichtigsten Stadt Thailands gewinnen: Buddhistische Tempel gibt es an jeder Ecke! Abends sind sie märchenhaft beleuchtet. Drinnen konnten die Kinder die schöne, glitzernde Einrichtung bestaunen und etwas abkühlen. Denn draußen waren es an diesem Aprilabend 35 Grad!

2. Mit Elefanten baden
Das Highlight unseres Aufenthalts im Norden von Thailand war der Besuch bei den Elefanten. Wir waren in einem Öko-Camp und konnten einen Tag lang den Alltag einer Elefantenfamilie beobachten. Es waren Vater, Mutter, ihre zwei Kinder und ein anderes Elefantenkind, dessen Mutter starb. Als Erstes bekamen wir bunte Kleidung und Latschen. Der Betreuer brachte uns ein paar wichtige Vokabeln bei: „Bon!“ („Mach das Maul auf“), „De De“ („Gut“), „How“ („Stop“). Wir fütterten die Elefanten mit Bananen, Zuckerrohr und Vitamibällen, die wir selbst zubereiteten. Unser vierjähriger Sohn schien gleichzeitig begeistert und beängstigt von den Riesen zu sein. Er wollte sich den Elefanten annähern, aber am liebsten dabei auf Papas oder Mamas Arm sein. (Unser Baby wurde währenddessen von den Einheimischen bespaßt). 
Nach dem Mittagessen und -schlaf in einer Strohhütte machten wir die Elefanten in einer Riesenpfütze sauber und massierten sie mit den Bürsten. Zum Schluss durften wir auch selbst unter Wasser, das aus den Schläuchen und zum Teil aus den Elefantenrüsseln kam. Es war ein schöner und aufregender Tag. Beim Einschlafen sprach unser Vierjährige über das verwaiste Elefantenkind.
3. Frischer Wind am Wasserfall

Beim Tagesausflug zum Nationalpark Don Inthanon konnten wir die andere Seite der thailändischen Natur kennenlernen. Das Meer gab es nur aus Blumen – und zwar an den königlichen Pagoden. Dazu Berge statt Strand, frische Brise statt Hitze und ein atemberaubender Blick auf die Wolken und Berglandschaft. Besonders gefallen hat uns der 70 Meter hohe Wasserfall Wachirathan. Er hatte eine enorme Wucht und bespritzte uns mit Wasser. Habe ich schon erwähnt, dass es im Nationalpark angenehm kühl war? 10 Grad weniger als unten im Tal – „nur“ 25 Grad. Das Mittagessen in einem Flussrestaurant war schön.

Für die Anreise zum Nationalparkt mieteten wir ein Taxi samt Fahrer. Das kostete umgerechnet 80 Euro. So konnten wir den Park in unserem Tempo erkunden und die Stationen flexibel gestalten. Das war uns der Aufpreis im Vergleich zur Reisebus-Tour auf jeden Fall wert.
4. Auf dem Nachtmarkt essen
Der beste Ort für ein Abendessen in Chiang Mai sind die Nachtmärkte, die ab 17 Uhr geöffnet sind. Wir waren häufig am Ploen Ruedee Market, weil er in der Nähe war. Dort kann man z. B. die nordthailändische Spezialität Khao Soi probieren. Das Lieblingsgericht unseres Vierjährigen „Fried rice with chicken“ war natürlich auch dabei – verfeinert mit Schockopfankuchen und einer guten Portion Live-Musik. Das einzig Unangenehme an dem Nachtmarkt war der Weg dorthin. Denn Ampel, Zebrastreifen und Bürgersteige suchten wir öfters vergebens.

5. Kochkurs machen
Thailändisch kochen ist laut meinem Ehemann „kinderleicht“. Diese Erkenntnis gewann er beim Kochkurs in Chiang Mai, den er mit unserem vierjährigen Sohn absolvierte. Für die Zubereitung von Kokossuppe, Massaman Curry und „Fried Cashew Nuts with chicen“ benötigten sie „nur“ ein Messer, einen Gasherd, einen Wok und eine Handvoll Zutaten, die von der Kursleitung vorbereitet und abgewogen wurden.
Eigentlich wollte ich auch zum Kochkurs. Doch leider mussten das Baby und ich in dieser Zeit eine weitere Seite von Thailand kennenlernen: Wir waren im Krankenhaus. Aber das ist eine andere Geschichte. Die erzähle ich im nächsten Post…


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