Vollmondparty ist das, woran die meisten Menschen bei der Insel Koh Phangan im Golf von Thailand denken. Ein Mal im Monat treiben die Partyhaie aus der ganzen Welt im Süden der Insel ihr Unwesen. Im Westen und Norden geht es viel ruhiger zu. Zwei Wochen lang waren wir mit Baby (8 Monate alt) und Kind (4 Jahre alt) dort. Hier ist unsere persönliche Topliste der besten Strände auf Koh Phangan für Familien.
Bottle Beach (Haad Khuad)
Eigentlich wollten wir nur einen Tagesausflug zum Flaschenstrand im Norden der Insel machen. (Hier ist die Story vor der Überfahrt mit dem Longtailboot). Aber es gefiel uns dort so gut , dass wir uns in einem Bungalow direkt am Meer für mehrere Tage einquartierten. Für Leute, die Action oder Party mögen, ist der Strand ungeeignet. Für den Urlaub mit den Kindern am Flaschenstrand gibt es aber mindestens 5 Gründe:
1) weil er flach abfällt,
2) weil es dort ruhig ist,
3) weil es einen Pool gibt,
4) weil die Restaurants kinderfreundlich sind,
5) weil er von allen Seiten durch Dschungel begrenzt ist und Kids nicht weglaufen können…
Es gibt vier Ressorts am Strand und jedes hat eine Essensmöglichkeit. Im Restaurant in der Mitte des Strandes gibt es einen kleinen Spielplatz. Wir aßen am liebsten im Café von „Smile Bungalows“. Die Kellner spielen mit den Kindern Backgammon, suchen Krebse und Geckos oder schaukeln, während die Eltern entspannt die cremige Kokosmilchsuppe oder den scharfen Papayasalat essen. So ein Luxus!
Die Mitarbeiter stammen allesamt aus Myanmar. Den einheimischen Besitzer, deren Opa den Ressort gründete, kann man ab und zu vor Ort antreffen. Er liegt in der Hängematte oder sammelt Flaschen und Plastikmüll am Strand.
Coconut Beach (Haad Khom)
Vom Bottle Beach führt ein Trekkingpfad zum nächsten Strand. Der Weg durch den Dschungel ist mit den Flaschen markiert. Er sollte nach unterschiedlichen Aussagen zwischen 40 Minuten und 3 Stunden dauern und es gibt wohl mehrere Abzweige… Nach einer Stunde mit 4 Kindern bei 30 Grad Hitze kehrten wir um und nahmen ein Taxiboot. Die Wanderung im Dschungel bleibt aber dank Picknick und Klettern am Felsen noch lange in Erinnerung!
Der Sand am Coconut Beach ist puderzuckerweiß. Auch hier gibt es ein paar kleine Ressorts und Restaurants. Direkt vor dem Strand befindet sich ein Riff, so dass man hier wunderbar schnorcheln und Seeigel treffen kann. Die Koralle im Meer sind für die Kinderfüße nicht so toll. Am besten Wasserschuhe mitnehmen!
Zen Beach
Dieser Stand ist der beste Ort für Sonnenuntergänge auf Koh Phangan. Am Abend versammeln sich hier Menschen, um zu trommeln, zu tanzen und die Natur zu feiern. Kinder sind willkommen!
Secret Beach (Haad Son)
Geheim ist der Strand an der Westküste nicht wirklich, aber auch hier kann man schön den Sonnenuntergang mit Slacklinern und Yogafreunden genießen. Das Restaurant an einem Felsen rechts vom Strand ist märchenhaft mit Hängematten und Schaukeln eingerichtet. Dort kann man schön essen, danach vom Felsen ins Wasser springen und in der Fischsuppe schwimmen (direkt am Felsen ist ein Riff).
Malibu und Fanta Beach
Vom Dorf Chaloklum im Norden der Insel gelangt man an die beiden schönen Strände: Fanta Beach (recht vom Pier) und Malibu Beach (links vom Pier). An der Küste gibt es viele malerische Boote. Der Strand Malibu besticht mit den schönen runden Palmen, die ins Wasser ragen. Von längeren Aufenthalten dort sahen wir allerdings ab, da uns erzählt wurde, dass es lästige Sandflöhe gibt. Wir sahen dort keine Flöhe, nur klitzekleine Krebse, die dort die Berge von Minikugeln hinterlassen. Vielleicht sind das die heimlichen Fanta-Verehrer, die solche Gerüchte über den nahe liegenden Konkurrenz-Strand verbreiten!
In Chaloklum gibt es tolle Lokale, die von den russischsprachigen Auswanderern gegründet wurden. Im Multihouse kann man die besten Pancakes mit Mango oder… Reibekuchen mit Smetana bestellen. Wie praktisch, dass es dort ein großes Spielzimmer gibt. Im Café Carrot, das von einem Mann aus Minsk gegründet wurde, fanden wir Murawejnik-Torte und füllten unsere Flaschen mit fast kostenlosem Trinkwasser auf. Und ja, mit Russisch kommt man in Chaloklum zum Teil weiter als mit Englisch.
Was waren die besten Strände auf Koh Phangan für unsere Kinder? Der Vierjährige mochte es, im Sand zu spielen und Krebse zu beobachten. Was er nicht mochte, waren die Koralle im Meer, die kratzen. Deswegen fiel z.B. der Strand Haad Yao bei ihm durch (obwohl es dort viele hübsche Cafés mit Schaukeln gibt). Für das Baby war das vermutlich egal. Hauptsache es gibt ein schattiges Plätzchen für einen Mittagsschlaf…
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